Apologies again for being so lax with this blog.
Spring is finally here in Paris. Sunday t reached 26 degrees and I, apparently like everyone else in Paris, decided it was time to get some much needed. Vitamin D by soon that great Paris pastime, picnicking.
Picnicking is possibly my favorite part of living in Paris. The city has some great parks, and the food culture (aka cafe and bistrot culture) already has a great people watching/al fresco aspect to it at all times of the year. Combine these two and throw in some great weather (and a bottle of rosé) and it's a perfect storm of distraction from your slowly accumulating pile of dissertations and revisions you need to do before the end of the semester.
Needless to say, life in Paris is pretty alright, if you ignore the schoolwork. In a week I fly off to Dublin to meet Liping. And in a few weeks even more friends will be coming to visit. All these good things have made me all the more aware that I only have three more months in Paris, arguably the last time I may live in Paris, and so I've been trying to make the most of it.
Mainly this takes the form of eating as many charcuterie plates as possible and long walks from Sciences Po up to the Right Bank, but that's more than alright with me.
Friday, April 19, 2013
Friday, February 15, 2013
Reflections on Seeing Les Miserables in the home of Les Miserables
Les Miserables, the movie, was released on Christmas Day in the United States and similarly soon after in the UK. However, it was only released in France on February 13. Since I was fortunate enough to be home for the holidays, I went to see it with some friends and thoroughly enjoyed it for what it was, a movie adaption of the beloved, iconic Broadway musical.
However, since it was released here in France, I decided to see it again with an American friend and her French boyfriend. She spent her holidays in Ireland and returned to Paris before it was released in the UK and Ireland so missed her chance on seeing it.
However seeing it in France, in Paris, it became glaringly obvious not made for modern French audiences the movie/musical adaption of the original novel is. Some observations:
1) So very religious: I don't understand how I never truly realized how often God, the Lord, Grace, mercy, etc. are mentioned, invoked, prayed to, otherwise involved, etc. in the script. Not that I personally have a problem with this. But France has had a difficult and complicated relationship with religion, especially the Catholic Church, since the time of Hugo, and it's very rare to hear the word God or Jesus in conversation. Unlike in English, where we say "oh my god," and say Jesus as an expression of frustration, surprise, etc. Metropolitan French does not. Quebecois French, which was until 40 years ago was still highly influenced by the Church is well known for its use religious terms as a way of swearing (tabernac, ostie, calisse, etc.). So to be in a French audience listening to every other lyrics having a heavy religious connotation really struck me.
2) So very bourgeois: In the musical we are supposed to want Cosette and Marius to get together and live happily forever after, or at least be happy for them at the end. But if you think about the circumstances of the story line it's essentially a moralistic tale for the bourgeoisie. Here, a rich, bourgeois (possibly aristocratic) student who plays at starting a revolution with his student friends almost gets killed in said rebellion and then instead of continuing the cause apparently settles down with a pretty wife and the largess provided by his rich grandfather. Morale of the story, don't rebel against the status quo, you might just get killed and instead be happy and stay bourgeois.
3) So very un-French: Les Mis is essentially a pastiche of what Brits and Americans like to think of when they think of France, or at least of Paris. There are nuggets of truth but then when you watch (or re-watch, in my case) Sasha Baron Cohen's portrayal of Thenardier, and it's almost offensive. Not that I was offended, clearly. But I did feel a bit awkward that some people in the audience probably were.
Not that this takes away from my enjoyment of the show or the movie, but it did make me think more about how important where you are actually is. My relationship with Paris continues to evolve.
However, since it was released here in France, I decided to see it again with an American friend and her French boyfriend. She spent her holidays in Ireland and returned to Paris before it was released in the UK and Ireland so missed her chance on seeing it.
However seeing it in France, in Paris, it became glaringly obvious not made for modern French audiences the movie/musical adaption of the original novel is. Some observations:
1) So very religious: I don't understand how I never truly realized how often God, the Lord, Grace, mercy, etc. are mentioned, invoked, prayed to, otherwise involved, etc. in the script. Not that I personally have a problem with this. But France has had a difficult and complicated relationship with religion, especially the Catholic Church, since the time of Hugo, and it's very rare to hear the word God or Jesus in conversation. Unlike in English, where we say "oh my god," and say Jesus as an expression of frustration, surprise, etc. Metropolitan French does not. Quebecois French, which was until 40 years ago was still highly influenced by the Church is well known for its use religious terms as a way of swearing (tabernac, ostie, calisse, etc.). So to be in a French audience listening to every other lyrics having a heavy religious connotation really struck me.
2) So very bourgeois: In the musical we are supposed to want Cosette and Marius to get together and live happily forever after, or at least be happy for them at the end. But if you think about the circumstances of the story line it's essentially a moralistic tale for the bourgeoisie. Here, a rich, bourgeois (possibly aristocratic) student who plays at starting a revolution with his student friends almost gets killed in said rebellion and then instead of continuing the cause apparently settles down with a pretty wife and the largess provided by his rich grandfather. Morale of the story, don't rebel against the status quo, you might just get killed and instead be happy and stay bourgeois.
3) So very un-French: Les Mis is essentially a pastiche of what Brits and Americans like to think of when they think of France, or at least of Paris. There are nuggets of truth but then when you watch (or re-watch, in my case) Sasha Baron Cohen's portrayal of Thenardier, and it's almost offensive. Not that I was offended, clearly. But I did feel a bit awkward that some people in the audience probably were.
Not that this takes away from my enjoyment of the show or the movie, but it did make me think more about how important where you are actually is. My relationship with Paris continues to evolve.
Friday, February 1, 2013
Back in Town
So, I made it back to Paris after a much needed break in New York, seeing friends and family, but mainly just overeating.
I have to say that this time around, I'm feeling more positive about the task that lays before me. It may be because I have an idea now of what I need to do to make it through both grad school and Paris for 4+ months, or perhaps it's because I already know that I'll be escaping Paris for interludes outside France on a regular basis, thanks to visits from friends and trips to London with my fellow dual degree students.
But more importantly, as I said--or perhaps I am imagining me having said this already (I am on the Metro as I type this, the joys of mobile technology are without bounds)--but I have come to terms with Paris. As silly as it sounds, I only realized quite late into last semester that I could not judge Paris on the same scale as New York, or even London. There is no comparison and not should there be. As obvious as a realization that may sounds it's allowed me to finally regain that feeling of awe that I used to get when I walked around Paris during those days in junior year.
More on classes later, for now I have to see a butcher about a chicken for tomorrow night's dinner.
I have to say that this time around, I'm feeling more positive about the task that lays before me. It may be because I have an idea now of what I need to do to make it through both grad school and Paris for 4+ months, or perhaps it's because I already know that I'll be escaping Paris for interludes outside France on a regular basis, thanks to visits from friends and trips to London with my fellow dual degree students.
But more importantly, as I said--or perhaps I am imagining me having said this already (I am on the Metro as I type this, the joys of mobile technology are without bounds)--but I have come to terms with Paris. As silly as it sounds, I only realized quite late into last semester that I could not judge Paris on the same scale as New York, or even London. There is no comparison and not should there be. As obvious as a realization that may sounds it's allowed me to finally regain that feeling of awe that I used to get when I walked around Paris during those days in junior year.
More on classes later, for now I have to see a butcher about a chicken for tomorrow night's dinner.
Tuesday, November 6, 2012
Life Can Begin!
Very quick update, since I have so many papers to write.
1) Went to London (I'll write more on that later)
2) Also went to Edinburgh (Ditto)
3) FINALLY received my student loan for realsies.
I can now stop eating pasta every night. I dont even know what I'll do with myself. Well, I'm going to buy the biggest tub of Nutella and go to town.
1) Went to London (I'll write more on that later)
2) Also went to Edinburgh (Ditto)
3) FINALLY received my student loan for realsies.
I can now stop eating pasta every night. I dont even know what I'll do with myself. Well, I'm going to buy the biggest tub of Nutella and go to town.
Friday, October 19, 2012
Some Thoughts After 50 Days in France
Day 50 in Paris
It would be dishonest of me to say that I have been thoroughly enjoying my time in Paris so far. It has been hard re-adjusting to student life, losing my independence, and losing my free time. In the back of my head I knew that these things were things that I would have to deal with, but I'm surprised at how much it's affecting me. I suspect this will pass, but thinking about the differences in the way I feel about being in France for a year between this time around and my year as an exchange student has had me thinking about how I actually think about France.
I still love France, its respect for tradition, for supporting culture and the arts, the slower pace of life, the food and wine, etc. But its becoming increasingly obvious to me that I could not live here for any extended period of time.
I think I mentioned my amazement how nothing has changed in Paris since I last left. That awe has turned to frustration. Not only has nothing physically changed, nothing internally has changed. To me, it's as if the world kept on moving and France and Paris has been stuck. In my eyes, respect for tradition has become a stubbornness to innovate. How can an entire city (or even country) have such poor internet service, such arcane processes for doing the simplest things like getting a monthly metro pass, signing up for a phone plan, etc.? This stubbornness is also expressed in a complete lack of academic creativity. Students are afraid to test the limits, to try new arguments, or to even write down anything that hasn't already been previously dictated by the professor. This is something I had experience before, but the extent of it is only now hitting me, which I suppose is my own fault.
A slower pace of life has become an excuse for why everything, banks, student registrar offices, government functions, etc. take so long to process. I'm fairly sure that in any other developed country, not responding to emails or phone calls in a professional setting is unacceptable, and yet, it's happened more than several times since I've been in France. I'm not just talking about not responding in 2 or even 3 days, which would be U.S. standards, but simply not responding at all. It's mind-blowing. As my Aussie friend found out after a frustrating experience in Orange Telecom, you can all chalk it up to the fact that everything is just as it is (meaning incredibly illogical and frustrating) "parce que nous sommes en France," because, we are in France. It's not a valid excuse, but the fact that someone would actually give you that as an explanation, just makes the situation so much clearer.
Needless to say, I am very much looking forward to London next year. The native anglophone students in my program (all three of us), have started a sort of informal anglophone support group. I don't hate Paris. Everyone in my program and the friends I've made so far, both French and non-French are terrific, intelligent, and kind. And even the French kids seem to know how frustrating their own country is. So maybe there is hope for the future. But for now, as much as it would have pained the 20-year old in me to say, this city makes me more proud to be an American than I would have ever been in New York.
It would be dishonest of me to say that I have been thoroughly enjoying my time in Paris so far. It has been hard re-adjusting to student life, losing my independence, and losing my free time. In the back of my head I knew that these things were things that I would have to deal with, but I'm surprised at how much it's affecting me. I suspect this will pass, but thinking about the differences in the way I feel about being in France for a year between this time around and my year as an exchange student has had me thinking about how I actually think about France.
I still love France, its respect for tradition, for supporting culture and the arts, the slower pace of life, the food and wine, etc. But its becoming increasingly obvious to me that I could not live here for any extended period of time.
I think I mentioned my amazement how nothing has changed in Paris since I last left. That awe has turned to frustration. Not only has nothing physically changed, nothing internally has changed. To me, it's as if the world kept on moving and France and Paris has been stuck. In my eyes, respect for tradition has become a stubbornness to innovate. How can an entire city (or even country) have such poor internet service, such arcane processes for doing the simplest things like getting a monthly metro pass, signing up for a phone plan, etc.? This stubbornness is also expressed in a complete lack of academic creativity. Students are afraid to test the limits, to try new arguments, or to even write down anything that hasn't already been previously dictated by the professor. This is something I had experience before, but the extent of it is only now hitting me, which I suppose is my own fault.
A slower pace of life has become an excuse for why everything, banks, student registrar offices, government functions, etc. take so long to process. I'm fairly sure that in any other developed country, not responding to emails or phone calls in a professional setting is unacceptable, and yet, it's happened more than several times since I've been in France. I'm not just talking about not responding in 2 or even 3 days, which would be U.S. standards, but simply not responding at all. It's mind-blowing. As my Aussie friend found out after a frustrating experience in Orange Telecom, you can all chalk it up to the fact that everything is just as it is (meaning incredibly illogical and frustrating) "parce que nous sommes en France," because, we are in France. It's not a valid excuse, but the fact that someone would actually give you that as an explanation, just makes the situation so much clearer.
Needless to say, I am very much looking forward to London next year. The native anglophone students in my program (all three of us), have started a sort of informal anglophone support group. I don't hate Paris. Everyone in my program and the friends I've made so far, both French and non-French are terrific, intelligent, and kind. And even the French kids seem to know how frustrating their own country is. So maybe there is hope for the future. But for now, as much as it would have pained the 20-year old in me to say, this city makes me more proud to be an American than I would have ever been in New York.
Tuesday, October 9, 2012
Sunday, October 7, 2012
Nuit Blanche
Day 40 in Paris
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Still no word about the student loan disbursement other than its somewhere between the U.S. and France. In the meantime, I spent a total of 5 euros on groceries this week: a kilo of rice, a loaf of bread, eggs, sausages, and a liter of milk. Does France have foodstamps? Cause I think I need them.
But anyway, Nuit Blanche was last night. Paris' all-night art exhibition festival. Following tradition I packed a flask of whiskey in my jacket and hit the streets with some friends. This year had a lot of light installations and musical performances.
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Also: Bubbles at the National Archives to an indie soundtrack. I'm pretty sure I heard a Sufjan Stevens song.
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Needless to say it was an enjoyable night, but at the end--well, when I was too tired to go on--I decided it'd be easier to bike home than to wait for the night bus. So I took out a Velib, Paris' rent-a-bike system and made my way home, unsteadily (thank you, flask of whiskey). Also, what I didn't realize was exactly how steep the incline is up to my apartment. I live in the 19th, next to the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, buttes having the same meaning in English as in French. It's one of the many hills in Paris and while the view is nice, biking is apparently as I learned, a challenge. Can't say I'd do it again, but we'll see.
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